Your Ultimate Guide to Skincare Products: What, When, How and Why?

So you’re reading to put together a skincare routine that you’re actually going to stick to this time? But you have no idea which order to put all these ‘miracle’ products on to make your face look like that one you saw in the magazine? Don’t worry I’ve got your back. Here’s a (nearly) exhaustive list for the order your skincare products should go in. Now, I’m not saying you need to use one of every type (for example, you don’t need to use both chemical and mineral sunscreen) but if you’re using multiple products, this is the best order for them to give the most benefit to your skin.

Now you may think, why does the order matter? Perfectly acceptable and honestly, sometimes you can shake up the order to fit you (for example maybe you prefer using your acne treatment product at the end of your routine!). However, some are less flexible rules, such as moisturiser being used before cleansing and toning would completely remove the benefit of moisturising in the first place.

1. Make-Up Remover

What is Make-Up Remover?

Make-up remover is intended to remove make-up products from your skin. It often contains chemicals which are specifically suited to dissolve makeup such as foundation, mascara etc. Where the base of your makeup (oil or water) depicts what kind of make-up remover will work best for you. Oil based will work better to remove oil based makeup, whereas water will work best for water-based.

How to use Make-Up Remover?

Make-up Remover often comes in a bottle as a liquid. Apply to cotton pads/reusable pads and wipe across all areas that contain make-up.

When to use Make-Up Remover?

Use at the start of your Night routine as you will need to remove the make-up worn in the day.

Why use Make-Up Remover?

Whilst cleansers do clean skin and can remove some makeup, makeup remover is specially formulated to fully remove make-up ensuring your skin is fully clean.

2. Cleansers

For this post I’m going to discuss all cleansers in one grouping, however you can get a wide range of cleansers such as water-based, cream, gel, foam, oil etc. All of which have different benefits to the skin, and which work differently with different skin types.

What is a Cleanser?

Cleansers are a product that removes dead skin cells, oil, dirt, some make-up and more from your skin. It helps to unclog pores and ensures your skin is fully cleaned and ready for the rest of your routine. If you don’t have a good cleanser for the base of your routine, then your skin won’t be able to absorb the benefits from other products.

How to use a Cleanser?

Depending on the type of cleanser you get changes how you use them. Most cleansers are either to be used with cotton/reusable pads or are used over the sink with water and your hands. Make sure you use the amount specified on the product, and massage into your skin, ensuring you reach areas such as hairline, ears and neck. If required, rinse with lukewarm water.

When to use a Cleanser?

Your face needs to be cleansed in both your morning and night routines. In the evening to wash away and makeup remnants from make-up remover, and also any dirt, grime and bacteria you’ve picked up throughout the day. It also helps clean pollutants from your skin. In the morning it helps to remove any dead skin cells and impurities accumulated when sleeping.

Why use a Cleanser?

Whilst you may think you’ve cleaned your skin with make-up remover, that’s only removed your make-up. Cleansers make sure you’ve actually cleaned your skin from any dirt, debris, pollution etc that accumulates throughout the day.

3. Exfoliators

What is it an Exfoliator?

An exfoliator is a product that assists the natural process of dead skin cells shedding to show the newly produced skin cells underneath. There are different types of exfoliators which can be split into mechanical or chemical exfoliants.

Mechanical exfoliants include physical scrubbing of the skin with something abrasive. This could be as simply as a face cloth, but could also be a dry brush or loofah(used more for bodies), pumice stones, micro beads (now banned due to environmental hazard, or the more common apricot kernels, nut shells, sugar, or salt crystals.

Chemical exfoliants often use ingredients such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid. When used in low concentrations, these are available over-the-counter. Chemical exfoliants using alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are labelled separately as ‘Treatment products’ and are used later than this stage in the skincare routine.

How to use an Exfoliator?

Mechanical exfoliators need to be massaged over the skin gently to buff away dry skin and dirt on your skin. These will then need to be rinsed off with lukewarm water and then your skin patted dry with a soft towel. Chemical exfoliators often act differently in that you apply to the skin for a specified amount of time on the bottle.

When to use an Exfoliator? 

Exfoliators should only be used 2-3 times a week, and this depends on how dry or oily your skin is. Over exfoliation can damage your skin which can cause larger and more persistent dry and flaky patches as your skin tries to compensate from irritation. It’s best to incorporate an exfoliator into your night routine on days you use one as sun exposure is more harmful on recently exfoliated skin.

Why use an Exfoliator?

If you suffer from dry of flaky patches then your skin may need a little help with fully removing dead skin cells. This is where a gentle exfoliator comes in helpful, as it assists in the natural process, allowing you to remove dry patches and reduce the chances of these blocking pores, and causing other skin issues.

4. Masks

What are Face Masks?

Face masks often include minerals and vitamins which help to deep cleanse the pores of your face. Depending on your skin type and skin issues, different masks may be more or less effective in your skincare routine. Types of mask include oil absorbing, pore perfecting/tightening, deep-cleaning, hydrating, and overnight (protective) masks. Hydrating and overnight masks which are supposed to be left on instead of rinsing should be applied later in the routine, so this section is focused on oil absorbing, pore perfecting/tightening, and deep-cleaning masks.

How to use Face Masks?

Each mask will have its own set of instructions on the tub/bottle it comes in. Most often you apply for anywhere between 5 and 15 minutes before rinsing off thoroughly. In the case of peel-off masks, start peeling once the entire face looks and feels dry as they often contain alcohol ingredients which dries the skin.

When to use Face Masks?

Similar to exfoliators, use 2-3 times a week depending on skin type and personal preferences. Some masks have been formulated for everyday use, where they can help as they’ve been created to be more gentle. However using a normal mask daily may over-dry, over-moisturise, or over-clean your skin which will lead to other skin issues. You can add your face mask to your morning or night routine, depending if you have the time, although skin care specialists do suggest they work best after exfoliation.

Why use Face Masks?

If you find the right face mask for the issues your skin is having, or to fit your skin type, a face mask can help hydrate, deep clean, reduce pores and remove excess oils and debris. This all adds up to make your skin look and feel its best. However, remember to focus on finding the right one for your personal needs.

5. Toners

What is Toner?

Looking similar to your water-based cleansers, toners have a bit more packed into it with added benefits to your skin. Toner helps to hydrate whilst also cleaning dead skin cells and acting as a primer to the rest of your skincare routine. It’s main focus is to balance the PH of your skin, allowing better absorption of moisturising and treatment products.

How to use Toner?

Most toners come in liquid form in a bottle, use a cotton/reusable pad to wipe across your face.

When to use Toner?

Use every day in both your morning and night routine on completely clean skin to gain the best benefits for your skin.

Why use Toner?

Each toner has different ingredients, and similar to every other product on this list you will need to find one which fits your skin type and works to address your personal skin issues. Different toners have different benefits, you can create glowing skin, remove dead skin cells, reduce oiliness and acne, hydrate skin and even plump or calm aging skin.

6. Treatment Products

Treatment products are those most often people look at and think ‘what do I do with this?’ and include many different products and ingredients. The main thing is that these products are ‘active’ products in that they do specific things by deeply penetrating the skin, for example antioxidant products (Vitamin C, Retinoids, Niacinamide) support protecting the skin with anti-inflammatory properties. All of them require to be applied on completely cleansed bare skin in order to be most effective. Using one active at one time creates the best results and reduce chances of irritation, or one making the other ineffective. However, if you absolutely need to this is the order of application.

Retinoids

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids are chemical based compounds that are derived from vitamin A. Retinoids include over the counter retinol, esters, and adapalene, as well as prescription only treatments such as retinoic acid (retin-A) or Accutane. 

How to use Retinoids?

Follow what is described on the bottle or tube. Most formulas need to be massaged into the skin, and then left to fully absorb for the best benefits.

When to use Retinoids Retinoids?

Do not use retinoids with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide and acids. Whilst daily use in your night routine is recommended, it depends on how sensitive your skin is to the product and once a week can also show benefits.

Why use?

Different strengths have different effects, but studies into retinoids have shown it encourages cellular turnover, stimulates collagen, treats acne, softens wrinkles, fades pigmentation and gives the skin a more youthful looking glow. There’s many reasons why retinoids are hailed as cult products.

Spot Treatments

What are Spot Treatments?

If you’ve ever had pesky pimples that you just want to get rid of, then a spot treatment is for you. It’s a specific formulated product that works to reduce the visibility of spots on your face, by treating the issues such as bacteria, sebum and oils on the skin’s surface.

How to use Spot Treatments?

Spot treatment is meant to be used in small amounts, just on the area where you have spots. Place directly on the spot, and most importantly  leave it alone.

When to use Spot Treatments?

Spot treatment can be used when and as needed, but twice a day with your daily morning and evening routine should suffice.

Why use Spot Treatments?

Often including ingredients like salicylic acid or glycolic acid which works to kill bacteria and dry sebum production which dries up large painful pimples. Also most now come with a hydrating ingredient so you’re not left with a dry patch or irritation.

Acid

What are Facial Acids?

Face acids aren’t as scary as they sound. They’re specially formulated so that the acid is the right concentration to be safe for your face, and many products actually include these same acids in weaker concentrations. For example, salicylic acid and glycolic acid are both used in the previously mentioned spot treatments.

How to use Facial Acids?

Follow directions given with the product you’ve purchased.

When to use Facial Acids?

Do not use retinoids with benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, and retinoids and also do not mix acids as this can cause irritation. You can use two a day, for example one in the morning and one in the evening if you want to reap different benefits from different acids.

Why use Facial Acids?

Acids works to fight acne, wrinkles, dark spots, scarring and uneven skin tones. Depending which acid you use will change which benefits you find. For acne prone skin you can use one of azaleic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid. For wrinkles and fine lines try one of glycolic acid, lactic acid, ascorbic acid or ferulic acid. For hyperpigmentation use kojic acid, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid, ascorbic acid or ferulic acid.

Vitamin C

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant which whilst included in many skincare ranges, has additional properties if a strong treatment serum is used. It’s versatile in its benefits, which is why it’s lauded as a super product for your skin.

How to use Vitamin C?

Use a few drops and massage onto your face and neck, making sure you don’t miss your eye area.

When to use Vitamin C?

Use in your morning routine to get the best protection for your skin alongside your preferred sunscreen and moisturiser. Use once a day to get the most out of it.

Why use Vitamin C?

Vitamin C helps protect the skin, reduce sun spots and help combat visible signs of aging and inflammation on the skin due to collagen production.

Niacinamide

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3, and is a powerful antioxidant that improves skin tone and texture by working with the natural substances in your skin.

How to use Niacinamide?

If using serum, apply a small amount all over face and neck. Follow instructions on bottle or tube if using other products that include niacinamide.

When to use Niacinamide?

Use once daily, either in the morning or night routine. Can be used alongside vitamins A and C, retinol and hydroxy acids to boost their performance.

Why use Niacinamide?

Fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation can be treated by using Niacinamide in your skincare routine, with the anti-inflammatory properties found in most antioxidant products also being shown. It also works alongside many other products/ingredients in your routine without causing irritation or ineffectiveness. 

7. Mists

What are Facial Mists?

Facial mists come in spray bottles which are used to rehydrate and replenish the skin. Not to be confused with setting spray, these mists are used for skin care rather than your makeup routine.

How to use Facial Mists?

Simply close your eyes and spray on your face.

When to use Facial Mists?

Use whenever your skin feels like it needs a hydrating boost.

Why use Facial Mists?

Some formulas help with acne, dry skin, create a protective barrier and help other products you use to be more effective.

8. Serums

What are Facial Serums?

Face serums are moisturisers that are lightweight and penetrate into your skin to deliver the beneficial ingredients. We’ve already discussed some of the treatment serums above, but many serums used for more moisturising purposes come under this step.

How to use Facial Serums?

Use a few drops and massage onto your face and neck. Follow additional instructions on product purchased. 

When to use Facial Serums?

Depending on which serum you’re using will depend on how often you should use it. Once a day is the usual for most, and usually during the night routine is best. However, always read the label for instructions.

Why use Facial Serums?

Serums are an additional boost to your skincare routine to allow you to gain benefits such as brightened skin, treat acne, reduce dry skin and treat fine lines. Finding a serum that has the benefits you personally need in your routine is best.

9. Chemical Sunscreen

What is Chemical Sunscreen?

Chemical sunscreens work like a sponge to absorb the sun’s rays in order to protect the skin.

How to use a Chemical Sunscreen?

Apply to all areas that will be exposed to the sun and wait for it to fully absorb before going outside.

When to use a Chemical Sunscreen?

Use sunscreen every morning, although you only need to use one whether that is a chemical sunscreen, or a mineral one which is applied later in the routine.

Why use Chemical Sunscreen?

Because chemical sunscreens absorb the UV rays the skin is protected because these harmful rays never hit the body.

10. Hydrating Mask

What is a Hydrating Mask?

Hydrating masks are the same as the face masks discussed earlier in the routine, except the main focus and ingredients work to hydrate the skin.

How to use a Hydrating Mask?

Apply all over face and leave on for however long the packaging states. Rinse off if needed or wait for full absorption.

When to use a Hydrating Mask?

As part of your night routine, 2-3 times a week (so not after the chemical sunscreen don’t worry!). Use this or the usual face mask and not both in one routine as this may be too much product for the skin.

Why use a Hydrating Mask?

If you suffer from dry skin and are in need of an extra boost to have bright and glowing skin, a hydrating mask may be for you.

11. Eye Cream

What is Eye Cream?

Eye creams are similar to moisturisers except they are specifically formulated to be more gentle to the sensitive eye area, and also tend to be thicker.

How to use Eye Cream?

Using your ring finger to gently dab a 5p sized amount of eye cream from the inner corner of your eye to the under area of the eye to your outer corner. (Your ring finger is your ‘weakest’ finger due to limited movement, and therefore the most gentle.) Apply excess product to your eyelid and up to your brows.

When to use Eye Cream?

Use in both your morning and night routine to help keep the skin fresh and hydrated all day. Eye cream can be applied before or after moisturiser, but because it is thicker it can take longer to absorb, therefore before moisturiser means you can continue onto the next steps after moisturiser faster.

Why use Eye Cream?

Dark circles, puffiness and dry skin around the eyes? Well finding the perfect eye cream can help alleviate all these problems as well as prevent and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. If you wear heavy eyeliner or eyeshadow daily, it also helps to revitalise this area.

12. Moisturiser

What is Moisturiser?

Moisturiser is a key staple in any skincare routine as it helps to hydrate the skin. Similar to cleansers, these can have different bases (water, oil) which will work better with different skin types.

How to use Moisturiser?

Apply liberally all over your face and gently massage into skin until fully absorbed.

When to use Moisturiser?

Use moisturiser every single day as part of your morning and night routine. Use even if the rest of your routine is thrown out of the window to ensure your skin is kept hydrated.

Why use Moisturiser?

The skin loses moisture through so many factors. Whether it’s daily pollutants, dirt and debris, makeup clogging pores and even your cleansing routine. This means that you need to put back the moisture that has been removed throughout the day and from your cleansing routine.

13. Oil

What is Facial Oil?

Despite popular myth, facial oils can work with all skin types and getting the right one means it will work with your skin to assist in natural oil production and skin protection.

How to use Facial Oil?

Apply all over face and massage into the skin. Leave product to absorb and dry on skin.

When to use Facial Oil?

General use is once per day in the night routine as it gives the oil more time to absorb and work effectively, however those with extremely dry skin could benefit from morning use too. Oils should be the last step of your skincare routine as they’re the heaviest product for your skin. So use either an oil or an overnight mask for best results from one.

Why use Facial Oil?

Facial oils work to replenish the skin with natural oils, assist with natural oil production that your skin already does and also forms a protective barrier to reduce skin irritants throughout the day.

14. Mineral Sunscreen

What is a Mineral Sunscreen?

A mineral sunscreen has minerals as its active ingredients which sits on top of your skin and reflects the UV rays away from your skin.

How to use a Mineral Sunscreen?

Apply to all areas that will be exposed to the sun and wait for it to fully absorb before going outside.

When to use a Mineral Sunscreen?

Use sunscreen every morning, although you only need to use one whether that is a mineral sunscreen, or a chemical one which is applied earlier in the routine.

Why use a Mineral Sunscreen?

Mineral sunscreens create a physical barrier between your skin and the sun’s rays, allowing protection of the skin without the possible risks of chemical sunscreen.

15. Overnight Mask

What is an Overnight Mask?

Overnight masks are extremely similar to hydrating masks in that their main job is to hydrate and protect the skin. The difference is that overnight masks take a longer time to be absorbed into the skin and can leave a greasy/oily feeling behind on the skin, and therefore need to be rinsed off in the morning.

How to use an Overnight Mask?

Apply all over face and leave on. Rinse off in morning as part of that routine.

When to use an Overnight Mask?

Overnight masks can be used every night, although it’s recommended to use 2-3 times a week. This should not be used with a facial oil, as these are an either-or product in the routine.

Why use an Overnight Mask?

If your skin needs an added boost of hydration and protection from drying in the day, an overnight mask may be the best product for you. They give a deeper treatment than hydrating masks due to the longer time left on skin.